Sun and Wind Sensors for Retractable Awnings: Types, Thresholds and Placement

Awning sensors automatically retract a motorized awning when wind or rain arrives and can extend it when the sun comes out. A wind sensor is the one that protects your investment: set it to retract at least one Beaufort step below the awning's EN 13561 wind class, and mount it where it feels the same wind the awning does. This page explains the sensor types, the thresholds and timings to use, and the placement mistakes that cause most failures.

Which sensor types are available?

Somfy's Eolis (wind) and Soliris (sun and wind) families are the widely recognized examples, and most motor brands offer equivalents. The critical compatibility point is that the sensor speaks the same radio as the motor receiver (for example RTS-type sensors with RTS motors), or that it is wired to the motor's control inputs. See awning motors and controls for protocol choices.

Vibration sensor or anemometer?

A vibration sensor measures the result you actually care about: whether the awning is being shaken. It needs no wiring, it travels with the awning, and it does not care whether the house is shielding a wall-mounted cup. That makes it the default for most single residential awnings.

Its weaknesses are real, though. It only senses movement, so a strong steady wind that loads the fabric without making the front bar bounce can go undetected until the gusts start. Its battery dies quietly, and a dead sensor looks exactly like a calm day. And sensitivity is set by a dial or button, not in mph, so it needs calibration on a windy day.

An anemometer gives an objective number, can be wired so there are no batteries, and can protect several awnings at once. Its weakness is placement. A cup sensor tucked in the corner under an eave, on the lee side of the house, can read half the wind that hits the extended fabric.

What wind threshold should you set?

EN 13561, the European standard for external blinds and awnings, assigns wind resistance classes based on the test pressure an extended awning withstands. US products often reference the same classes. Your awning's class is the ceiling, not the target.

Why one step below? Sensors react to averaged readings, and the awning needs 30-90 seconds to retract. A gust can double instantaneous load during that time. Setting the trigger lower gives the awning time to close before the wind reaches its rated limit. The full Beaufort table is in wind classes, and the wind rating checker helps match a class to your local conditions.

Setting a sun sensor so it does not hunt

Sun sensors measure light intensity in lux. Direct summer sun is roughly 100,000 lux; bright overcast is often 10,000-25,000 lux. Most controllers let you set a threshold within a range such as 10,000-50,000 lux, plus fixed or adjustable delays.

• Threshold: start mid-range and adjust. If the awning extends under thin cloud, raise it.
• Extend delay: typically around 2 minutes of continuous bright light before extending.
• Retract delay: typically 15-30 minutes of low light before retracting. A short retract delay causes the awning to cycle with every passing cloud, wearing the motor and annoying everyone.
• Sensor aim: the sun sensor must see the same sky as the glass or patio you are shading. A sensor on a south wall will not respond to afternoon sun on a west patio.
• Season and schedule: disable sun automation in winter, when you want solar gain, and when you are away for long periods if your system cannot guarantee wind protection.

Sun automation pays off for energy savings on glass that you cannot shade manually during work hours. The US Department of Energy estimates awnings can reduce solar heat gain by up to 65 percent on south-facing windows and 77 percent on west-facing windows, but only if the awning is out when the sun is on the glass.

Where to mount the sensors

Vibration sensors

Mount on the front bar, usually near the center where movement is greatest, or in the dedicated slot many front bars provide. Keep the sensor orientation as the instructions require; some are orientation-sensitive. Calibrate by setting maximum sensitivity, then reducing it until normal small movements do not trigger retraction.

Anemometers

The sensor should be at or slightly above the height of the extended fabric, clear of eaves, corners and parapets that create sheltered pockets, and on the side of the house exposed to your prevailing strong wind. On a wall, a bracket that holds the cups at least a foot or two (30-60 cm) clear of the wall surface reads more accurately than a flush mount. Avoid mounting directly above the awning, where the awning itself shelters the cups.

Rain sensors

The sensing plate must be open to the sky and tilted per the instructions so it dries after rain; otherwise it keeps the awning locked in. Rain sensors are most useful for low pitch awnings and fabrics that are not fully water resistant (see waterproof vs water-resistant awnings). Plan to extend and dry wet fabric within a day or two to prevent mildew.

Testing and maintenance

1. Test on install. With the awning out, tap or shake the front bar (vibration sensor) or spin the cups by hand or with a leaf blower at a distance (anemometer). The awning should retract within the controller's stated response time.
2. Confirm lockout. After a wind trigger, try to extend with the remote. Most systems block extension for several minutes; know how long yours does.
3. Replace batteries every spring. Do it on a fixed date rather than when the low battery warning appears, if the sensor has one at all.
4. Retest after any re-pairing or motor change. A replacement motor does not inherit sensor pairings.
5. Clean the sun sensor lens. Pollen and dirt reduce readings and delay extension.

Even with sensors, follow the habits in awning wind safety. Sensors handle the unexpected gust; they are not a substitute for closing the awning when a storm is forecast.

Frequently asked questions